good bye to Toledo

Our third day in Toledo, March 1st:

We got off to a slow start this AM, must be still getting over the jet lag. We visited the Cathedral next door first thing. Although it is not the most beautiful cathedral in Europe on the outside on the inside it is quite wonderful. The sheer dimensions are mind boggling at 500-600 feet long, 200+ wide and 150-180 high. We spent over two hours and likely could have stayed longer. The sculptures and artwork are so beautiful it is difficult to take them all in as the next one keeps getting better. My neck is so strained from looking up for the better part of two hours. (Bob)


James Michener (in Iberia) says that the flanges on the steeple of the cathedral look like they are about to impale any angels descending from heaven. It IS very odd looking and the other steeple was never finished.

This statue, in the cathedral is very intersting. It is called the White Virgin because of her robe, but the faces of the Madonna and child are very dark suggesting they may have an African origin.

This is the alter in the main chapel. You are not supposed to take pictures but Bob has a very small camera.

There are many original El Grecos in this church and I am becoming a fan of his work. There are many of his paintings scattered around the city. Do you ever get used to seeing all these wonderful works of art?

We then went off for a terrific lunch. Nancy had hake and I ordered my favourite, Calamari. After lunch (how do the Spanish survive on such a heavy mid day meal? Oh right...the siesta!) we went to the Museo Del Santa Cruz again to check out their El Greco collection and other over the top Catholic type paintings including a Goya and a Raphael.

We are not sorry we decided to spend extra time in Toledo, we have really enjoyed this city and, although it is time to move on, we will never forget the days we have spent at the Casa Cisneros. By the way, should you ever pass this way, we can reccomend this hotel. It has been a wonderful experience.

2 March

This morning we slept on for breakfast because our clock broke down. I think we seemed very lazy to the staff but we thought it was 10 when it was actually 11 AM. I think we have fixed the clock, at least I hope so as we leave at 6:30 tomorrow AM!

The little that was left of the morning was spent arranging travel and accomodation for Cordoba tomorrow. Later we finally found "el Transito". The sinagoga del transito (1355 AD) one of the few synogues left in Toledo. I thought this building was even more amazing than the cathedral. The roof was spectacular. There is a special atmosphere here that you may not find in the rest of Toledo. It was built for Samuel Levi who was the treasurer for Pedro the Cruel. He got in the good graces of his mentor's mistress but when he managed to accumalate too much money Pedro executed him and took all his money:( Then the Transito got transformed into a Catholic church. That happened a lot around here. To make matters worse they stuck a huge church right in the middle of the Jewish quarters, San Juan de los Reyos. beautiful, but a bit over the top if you know what I mean.

El Transito

San Juan de los Reis

the ceiling of "el transito"